Khan-Tengri from North side – attempt
			
	We did not summit. We started from camp 3 at 3 am. We climbed quite slowly fighting heavy winds. Our acclimatization was less than desirable. The forecast was unstable and guides from base camp recommended starting descend at most at 2 PM. After 3 hours of climbing or so we stopped for rest at a small cliff that sheltered us from wind. I discovered that the lid of my insulated bottle froze and I cannot drink. Leonid expressed his opinion that he already had been on that summit and he preferred to go down rather earlier and be able to descend to camp 2 today rather than push to the end and spend another night at camp 3. I realized that I will be very slow without water and we decided to go down.
	The route on a mountain goes from Northern Enilcek glacier (4000 m) by NW ridge to Peak Chapaeva shoulder aka Peak Petka (6100 m). Further it descends to a saddle to camp 3 (5900 m) and from there goes to the summit (6995 m). The route equipped with fixed lines almost entirely. Most sections are steep enough and climbers use ascenders. On steepest sections it is easier to use ice-climbing/mixed technique with your ice axe with ascender in another hand. The route is quite physical. On steep se?tions with heavy loads one can run out of breath quite fast.
	Another standsrd route goes from South side, from Southern Enilcek glacier. That route is less steep and less physical, but it is more dangerous, especially in a notorious «bottleneck» section. Both routes merge near camp 3.
	We made our 1st acclimatization journey to camp 1 (4600 m). There we left our tent. The second journey we made up to camp 2 (5650 m). It is recommended to spend 2 nights in camp 2 as part of your acclimatization and also climb up to Petka. However we spend only one night there and climbed above camp 2 not more than 150 m. The reason was bad weather forecast for next day with heavy snowfall and we did not want to be on a mountain at that time. This was our mistake. We later observed that the route is not avalanche prone and it is possible to descend it in bad weather.
	On a main journey we climbed from base camp straight to camp 2. We climbed light, our tent and things were at camp 2. Leonid decided to have one day rest in camp 2. I alone climbed light to Petka to entertain myself. The next day we climbed to camp 3 with all of our loads. After Petka summit we climbed in whiteout. There are no fixed lines on a saddle, however there are crevasses and we roped up. We stayed not far from the saddle ridge, but at some distance from in order not to break the cornice. After some time we spotted a southern camp down below in a crevasse. Our camp was a bit further. I almost decided to go to southern camp, it seems easier way for me as far as I can see in whiteout. However, Leonid had already been here 16 years ago and he corrected our way.
	After our unsuccessful summit bid the forecast for next day was worse and we went down. Many climbers who climb from Northern side descend on Southern side. We did not want that risk and descended back to North. On some ropes you can use rappel, however mostly the line is too tight for rappel. Mostly you descend holding a rope by hands and sliding prusik on steep sections or just carabiner on less steep ones.
	We spent 15 days on a glacier and from it 10 days on a mountain. During that time from Nothern side only 3 climbers who summited (not counting guides that equip the route). Dozens of others including us did not.
	There is only one company operating on a mountain now – Aksai Travel. You can buy a service from another company, but it will be also Aksai agent and ultimately you will be dealing with Aksai. We bought full package with food in base camp without guiding service. They bring you to the base camp by helicopter and back from Karkara camp. From Bishkek to Karkara transportation is by van takes about 8 hours. Aksai provides tents, food and shower in Karkara. In base camp climbers live in tents on a wooden bases on a glacier. Sauna is free, Starlink internet costs 5 USD per hour, and they regularly turn on a generator to charge electronic devices. When on a mountain, climbers stay in contact with base camp using radio that Aksai provides.
	I have overall good impression from Aksai service. When contacting them initially, they might be slow to answer your messages, but this problem is transient and this contact always worked for me: Timur on WhatsApp: +996-709-527-525. If you have problem wiring them money, don’t worry – just bring cash and they will take it. You can save some money and buy “economical” package. In this case you cook your own food in a base camp.
	Couple of words about gear. The temperature was never too low, but because of the wind and altitude it felt cold in camp 3. I had sleeping bag rated at -30 C and my warmest parka and I would take them again. Definitely, one needs double boots for this mountain. At the summit attempt day it was cold even in warmest gloves and we switched to mittens. I made sure the mittens I took fit the ascender handle. You need gloves or mittens with thick outer layer for descend to withstand rope abrasion.